Banarasi silk sarees are synonymous with luxury, tradition, and craftsmanship. A timeless treasure, these sarees have adorned Indian women for centuries and remain a favorite for weddings and grand occasions. However, with the market flooded with imitations, distinguishing a pure Banarasi silk saree from a fake can be challenging. If you are investing in this exquisite weave, knowing how to verify its authenticity is crucial. Here are expert tips to help you identify a genuine Banarasi silk saree.
1. Check for the Banarasi Handloom Mark
The Government of India has introduced the "Handloom Mark" and "GI (Geographical Indication) Tag" to certify authentic Banarasi silk sarees. Always check for this certification when purchasing a saree. A genuine Banarasi silk saree will carry these marks, ensuring that it has been woven in Varanasi by skilled artisans.
2. Look at the Weaving Pattern and Texture
A pure Banarasi silk saree is handwoven on a loom, giving it a distinctive texture. The weaving technique used in making these sarees results in intricate designs with a slightly raised feel. If the saree looks too flat and uniform, it may be machine-made and not authentic.
3. Examine the Reverse Side of the Saree
One of the easiest ways to identify a pure Banarasi silk saree is by looking at the back of the fabric. A handwoven saree will have floaty, uneven threads on the reverse side, known as the "pallu" or "pallu texture." Fake or power loom sarees usually have neat and uniform stitches, often concealed with a mesh lining.
4. The Mughal-Inspired Motifs
Banarasi silk sarees are known for their intricate patterns inspired by Mughal art. Authentic Banarasi sarees feature motifs like:
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Jangla (dense floral patterns)
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Butidar (small motifs in gold and silver zari)
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Tanchoi (self-patterned designs with an embossed effect)
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Shikargah (hunting scenes with animal motifs)
If the saree lacks these traditional motifs or has overly modernized patterns, it may not be a pure Banarasi silk saree.
5. The Zari Test – Real Gold and Silver Work
The zari work in a genuine Banarasi silk saree is made of pure gold and silver-coated threads. You can test the zari authenticity by:
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Scratching it lightly; real zari will reveal a reddish or silver thread underneath, while fake zari will show a white or polyester thread.
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Folding the saree and observing its shine—pure zari has a subtle, rich sheen rather than an overly bright or flashy look.
6. Silk Purity Test – The Burn Test
If you have already purchased the saree and want to verify its silk authenticity, perform a burn test with a small loose thread:
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Burn a tiny strand from the saree.
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If it smells like burnt hair and turns to ash, it is pure silk.
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If it smells like plastic and forms a hard bead, it is synthetic.
7. The Weight Factor – Pure Silk Feels Heavier
A real Banarasi silk saree has a slightly heavier feel due to its dense weaving and high-quality silk fabric. If the saree feels too light or flimsy, it may be mixed with synthetic fibers.
8. Price – Beware of Deals Too Good to Be True
Pure Banarasi silk sarees are expensive because they require weeks, sometimes months, of meticulous handloom weaving. If a seller offers a Banarasi saree at an unbelievably low price, it’s likely an imitation. A genuine Banarasi silk saree typically starts at a higher price point due to the quality of silk and craftsmanship involved.
9. Shop from Trusted Sellers
To ensure authenticity, always buy your Banarasi silk saree from reputed brands, certified handloom stores, or official online stores like Hakshi. We guarantee 100% pure Banarasi silk sarees, directly sourced from Varanasi’s finest artisans.
10. Test the Fabric by Wrinkling It
Pure silk has a natural softness and wrinkles easily when crushed. If you squeeze a part of the saree in your hand and it remains wrinkled for a few seconds, it’s real silk. Fake silk, made of synthetic materials, will not retain wrinkles and bounce back immediately.
Final Thoughts
Investing in a Banarasi silk saree is not just about owning a luxurious piece of clothing—it’s about preserving a heritage. By following these expert tips, you can confidently choose an authentic Banarasi silk saree that will remain a treasured heirloom for generations.
At Hakshi, we take pride in offering a handpicked collection of authentic Banarasi silk sarees. Browse our collection today and own a masterpiece of tradition and elegance!
